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First Bespoke Suit
06-11-2015, 04:34 PM
I am having my first bespoke suit next week and I would like to see if you guys think that I am missing anything or have any tips.
After researching tailors I want something like this:
9-10oz wool
Navy Blue with a subtle plaid design
Single breasted peak lapel
Do not know if 1 button or 2 button
High armholes
Pants with no belt loops
Natural shoulder
Slim fit
Working buttons (Do not know if I prefer kissing, cascade or separate buttons)
Ticket pocket, yay or nay?
Anything else?
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First Bespoke Suit
06-11-2015, 06:04 PM
Is this for business or evening wear?
Why do your pants have no belt loops? Don't you wear a belt.
If you have broad shoulders or a decent build, I would go one button. Nice silhouette.
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First Bespoke Suit
06-11-2015, 06:22 PM
I like ticket pockets. Extra pair of pants. Maybe a little extra fabric for down the road if repairs need to be made. I've torn nice pants and shit, would have been nice to have extra material for reweaving.
Pants are flat front and no cuffs?
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First Bespoke Suit
06-11-2015, 06:51 PM
I'm not an expert, but I'd suggest:
* Go with braces/suspender buttons if you don't get belt loops
* Consider getting a three-piece suit since the vest will give you more combo options
* Be aware that if you get a suit with a pattern, even if it's light, it may make it a little more challenging to mix/match patterns in your shirt, tie, and pocket square. However, it doesn't necessarily mean that a no-pattern suit is better, just different. When I got my first custom suit, I got plain navy because I like wearing shirts and pocket squares with strong patterns, and it doesn't take as much attention to detail to get them to go with a no-pattern suit.
* Peak lapels can be a little more ostentacious and formal than notched lapels. So, depending on what you'll be wearing the suit for you should take that into consideration.
* A one button jacket is more fashion-forward than a two button. So again, make sure the suit fits the situations you'll be wearing it for.
* I agree that a ticket pocket is a nice touch
* I don't think the button design matters that much, except I recommend getting buttons with a brown/black pattern so they make it easier to wear either brown or black shoes with the suit
* I personally prefer two side vents over one back vent, because it's easier to put one hand in your pocket while you're standing
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First Bespoke Suit
06-11-2015, 07:04 PM
With the vest just keep in mind that the jacket will be designed with the vest being worn, so if you ever go without a vest it is going to be a little less fit. I have a 3 piece that has this issue.
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First Bespoke Suit
06-11-2015, 07:22 PM
Each tailor has a house cut (sometimes two or three) which he knows very well. If you specify something too far removed from that cut, you'll risk getting something not very well balanced and not as you expected. So basically, try to find a tailor who has something close to your desired cut in his window rather than choosing a tailor and asking him to try an experiment on your suit.
Fabric choices and small details like ticket pockets are not a problem, but I would recommend not trying to dictate the following:
-High armholes
-Natural shoulder
-Slim fit
Peak lapels are traditionally quite formal; likewise pants with no belt loops and single-button jackets. Is that the look you are going for?
Plaid, blue colour and ticket pockets are less formal.
Also, in my opinion bespoke suits should be double vented. Single venting is cheap and belongs on mass-produced suits.
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First Bespoke Suit
06-12-2015, 11:14 AM
Be prepared to answer the tailor's question "Which way do you dress?"
What he means is, on which side does your dick hang, left or right?
He has to allow for that with more material on that side.
Being ready for this will save you and him some embarrassment.
"If anything's gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there!- Captain Ron
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First Bespoke Suit
06-13-2015, 08:36 PM
Agree with the double venting. Also, I personally would go with 2 buttons (though the bottom is obviously not buttoned). I think that style will have more longevity than the 1 button style.