Hey guys, I've been meaning to drop a few style data sheets because you all have helped me a lot and my strength is style. I used to work as a stylist at barneys, but even before then style has been my hobby. I was the denim expert at barneys so I know denim pretty well.
I read the few recent denim threads and first I want to straighten a few things out. Men originally started as work wear, real denim is probably one of the most masculine things a man can own. When it comes to quality, how long a pair of jeans lasts or its softness is no indication of quality. Old school denim was built for men to use everyday for jobs like mining, hunting, and ranching and they only used one pair.
Saying that your denim lasted 4 years doesnt really mean anything if you wore it on weekends to lunch in a rotation of five other pairs. Wearing denim while prospecting for gold everyday and having that pair last 15 years is quality. Men used to use on pair and wear it well. Less is more, although denim might seem expensive 1 pair of good jeans is a much better investment than 6 pairs of crap.
I personally own 3 pairs (my daily jeans that I beat up, my “dress” jeans for a blazer, and skinny black jeans for going out or when I DJ) Expect to pay around 200+ for a pair of good denim.
Raw denim-
First, raw denim is denim that has never been washed or treated. This way the denim is stuff and dark when you buy it and you'll break it in over time. It might take about 6 monthes to begin to break in but I'll be worth it. The fades will be based on you movement so it reflects you. Always have an iphone? You'll get an iPhone or wallet fade in your back pocket over time, or a saddle fade if you rode motorcycles and bikes.
Selvedge-
Selvedge denim means it was made on an old style loom. This means the denim is weaved together at the end making a much stronger hold. (the word selvedge comes from “self-edge”) Conversely cheaper jeans are cut and the edges are sown together.
![[Image: studio-dartisan-703-selvedge-detail1.jpg]](http://www.procureddesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/studio-dartisan-703-selvedge-detail1.jpg)
^ what selvedge looks like.
Denim Quality- The best denim in the world comes from Japan. Although Americans invented it, the Japanese has perfected it. Japanese jeansmiths have come to the US and replicated their exact process but haven’t gotten the same results. The mill of the denim will usually be marked, any of the big mills in Japan are good. Denim from the white oak mill in North Carolina is the best american Denim.
Fits: Jeans that fit well are going to cost more because mass produced jeans are made to be marketed towards the average out of shape americans. Because good fits sell less, they are rarer and more expensive but good to find.
Bootleg: Unless you are a cowboy or have huge caves...dont
Straight: The denim has the same fit from the thigh all the way to the ankle.
Slim Straight: the Denim has the same cut through out the leg but is slimmer but still allows some room.
Slim Tappered: The leg begins smaller and tighter usually from the knee down
Skinny: the leg slims down from the very top of the thigh to the ankle
Jean Examples:
Entry-Level
APC- these are probably the most known raw jeans. The quality is okay but they do look and fit really good and fade pretty nicely pretty easily. Size down 1-3 sizes as they stretch. The Petit Standard is great for skinny guys, New Standard is good for everyone else. Stay away from the new cures.
Price: 155-180
3sixteen- made by real denim heads this is probably the biggest bang for your buck. super high quality, minimal branding, cut in the US with japanese denim. They have 2 cuts, tapered and straight. Both are great. Think denim, tattoos, pomade and cigerettes.
Price: 200-300
Levis Vintage Clothing- These are the best jeans levis makes because well they invented jeans. LVC goes back into levis archives and produced them by hand the same way they were back in the day. My daily wear is the LCV 1957 505. Do your research. This is Steve Mcqueen type stuff.
Acne Jeans- Although I wouldnt recommend the raw, every man needs a pair of black jean and these are great. Look for the Cash or Stay Cash color. Stay cash is overdyed black so it doesnt fade overtime. They strech a bit. The Max is a good fit. Think nordic DJ who just flew in from berlin and hasnt slept in 28 hours but still looks surprisingly well groomed.
Also, if the 200 range is too much best jeans under 200 are Levis Shrink to Fit (55) and Uniqlo (30-50). Almost everything else at that price range is crap. True religion, lucky brand, sevens. All crap. Really low quality stuff that screams “I think i am wealthy because i spent 135 on crap jeans at an outlet mall in orlando” Not trying to insult anyone but not it’s not what an international playboy should be wearing.
If anyone has any questions about mid to high end jeans I can make some recs. Also if anyone wants to know anything about fashion jeans (which are a whole another category; balmain, rick, dior) I can PM you or make a different thread.
Feel free to ask me anything about size,brands, fit.
I read the few recent denim threads and first I want to straighten a few things out. Men originally started as work wear, real denim is probably one of the most masculine things a man can own. When it comes to quality, how long a pair of jeans lasts or its softness is no indication of quality. Old school denim was built for men to use everyday for jobs like mining, hunting, and ranching and they only used one pair.
Saying that your denim lasted 4 years doesnt really mean anything if you wore it on weekends to lunch in a rotation of five other pairs. Wearing denim while prospecting for gold everyday and having that pair last 15 years is quality. Men used to use on pair and wear it well. Less is more, although denim might seem expensive 1 pair of good jeans is a much better investment than 6 pairs of crap.
I personally own 3 pairs (my daily jeans that I beat up, my “dress” jeans for a blazer, and skinny black jeans for going out or when I DJ) Expect to pay around 200+ for a pair of good denim.
Raw denim-
First, raw denim is denim that has never been washed or treated. This way the denim is stuff and dark when you buy it and you'll break it in over time. It might take about 6 monthes to begin to break in but I'll be worth it. The fades will be based on you movement so it reflects you. Always have an iphone? You'll get an iPhone or wallet fade in your back pocket over time, or a saddle fade if you rode motorcycles and bikes.
Selvedge-
Selvedge denim means it was made on an old style loom. This means the denim is weaved together at the end making a much stronger hold. (the word selvedge comes from “self-edge”) Conversely cheaper jeans are cut and the edges are sown together.
^ what selvedge looks like.
Denim Quality- The best denim in the world comes from Japan. Although Americans invented it, the Japanese has perfected it. Japanese jeansmiths have come to the US and replicated their exact process but haven’t gotten the same results. The mill of the denim will usually be marked, any of the big mills in Japan are good. Denim from the white oak mill in North Carolina is the best american Denim.
Fits: Jeans that fit well are going to cost more because mass produced jeans are made to be marketed towards the average out of shape americans. Because good fits sell less, they are rarer and more expensive but good to find.
Bootleg: Unless you are a cowboy or have huge caves...dont
Straight: The denim has the same fit from the thigh all the way to the ankle.
Slim Straight: the Denim has the same cut through out the leg but is slimmer but still allows some room.
Slim Tappered: The leg begins smaller and tighter usually from the knee down
Skinny: the leg slims down from the very top of the thigh to the ankle
Jean Examples:
Entry-Level
APC- these are probably the most known raw jeans. The quality is okay but they do look and fit really good and fade pretty nicely pretty easily. Size down 1-3 sizes as they stretch. The Petit Standard is great for skinny guys, New Standard is good for everyone else. Stay away from the new cures.
Price: 155-180
3sixteen- made by real denim heads this is probably the biggest bang for your buck. super high quality, minimal branding, cut in the US with japanese denim. They have 2 cuts, tapered and straight. Both are great. Think denim, tattoos, pomade and cigerettes.
Price: 200-300
Levis Vintage Clothing- These are the best jeans levis makes because well they invented jeans. LVC goes back into levis archives and produced them by hand the same way they were back in the day. My daily wear is the LCV 1957 505. Do your research. This is Steve Mcqueen type stuff.
Acne Jeans- Although I wouldnt recommend the raw, every man needs a pair of black jean and these are great. Look for the Cash or Stay Cash color. Stay cash is overdyed black so it doesnt fade overtime. They strech a bit. The Max is a good fit. Think nordic DJ who just flew in from berlin and hasnt slept in 28 hours but still looks surprisingly well groomed.
Also, if the 200 range is too much best jeans under 200 are Levis Shrink to Fit (55) and Uniqlo (30-50). Almost everything else at that price range is crap. True religion, lucky brand, sevens. All crap. Really low quality stuff that screams “I think i am wealthy because i spent 135 on crap jeans at an outlet mall in orlando” Not trying to insult anyone but not it’s not what an international playboy should be wearing.
If anyone has any questions about mid to high end jeans I can make some recs. Also if anyone wants to know anything about fashion jeans (which are a whole another category; balmain, rick, dior) I can PM you or make a different thread.
Feel free to ask me anything about size,brands, fit.