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are there parts of Bangkok that are actually pleasant in terms of air quality, greenery, neighborhood feel?
There's a few parks and stuff around. I used to get off one of the BTS stops (forget which now) and go to a big park with pond (few turtles and fish in it), basketball courts, fitness equipment etc in it and sit or walk around with a girl. Found it really funny when every day at a certain time the national anthem would get played and everyone would stop what they were doing and stand up.