[Hardy Daytona]

After browsing the forum archives, I saw that the last travel report on Rome was written nearly 4 years ago. Needless to say, a lot can happen in that time and since I just visited for a week to celebrate my birthday, a revised edition might be a good idea.
I’m going to break it into 3 categories – traveling to and from, the city proper and personal notes. This was the first international trip I’ve taken by myself so if there’s anything I've been misinformed about feel free to correct. And if you’d like some more information about anything specific I’ve noted, feel free to PM.
Without further ado, let’s dive in balls deep.

Gatwick/Rome
I’ll start with the positive notes. When I was a kid it used to take about an hour to fly to the Channel Islands ~235 miles away. Rome is nearly 4 times that distance at ~1100 miles and the flight took 2.5 hours so I’ve got to give points on flight time.
Also the staff, at least the ones whose souls hadn’t yet been crushed, were polite and helpful. Multi-lingual too. But that’s where my sympathy ends.
Travelling commercially, I’m expected to bend over and take it in the ass from airport security. Checking in I've no qualms with but the situation’s completely dissolved with no room left for personal consideration or discretion – shoes, belts, watches, security scanners, metal detectors, the separation of >100ml liquids into separate clear plastic bags.
South Park was absolutely right. It beats dealing with the airlines.

   

For those of you who haven’t seen this gem, George Carlin is right on the money here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQdC-e82gmk

And of course punctuality is just pot luck.
Security legislation notwithstanding, if someone were to start up a new airline with minimal fuss that lets you board your plane within 30 minutes of arriving at the airport I firmly believe they would make a killing. Security for freedom.
Moving on.

The City Proper
Being a member state of the EU and a member of the currency, Italy’s fallen on hard economic times. This is apparent from the moment you leave the airport. There’s graffiti everywhere. Banksy would be out of a job in weeks if he moved there.
The journey from Fiumicino into Rome shows how bad things are – public transport’s nowhere near as prompt as it was in the past (though you could attribute that to Mussolini’s guarantee to shoot any driver who was ever late in their routine) and there’s a general sense of hopelessness in the faces of the people. Walls crumbling, overgrowing foliage, general disrepair and grim sights.
When I arrived, my first thought was “Oh, I have made a serious error in judgement here.”

Checked in my bags at the B&B on Monday and wondered out towards the river Tibur to see what I’d run into. I didn’t have any plans until the next day so I figured I’d just go exploring.
The first noteworthy place I came across was the Basilica of St. Pancras. I’d soon discover that by comparison to others, this one was distinctly minimalist. No ornate decorations, marble pillars, bright lights or commemorative monuments. Just some faded murals on the walls and a couple of carvings. I liked it. Very peaceful.
The next place I came across was a museum built into an archway commemorating the Gibraldi family and their involvement in the battle to defend the newly formed Roman Republic in 1849 from autocratic European authorities. Informative, if a little dry. There was a mausoleum with names engraved a few streets away but it wasn’t open while I was there.

   

There was also a large fountain overlooking part of the city on a hilltop descending towards the river. There wasn’t any information on it, but making an educated guess from the markings I’d guess it was to honour one of the Popes.

   

The next day I headed to St. Peter’s Square. I consulted with someone who visited the city before me and I was told to head there early in the week during the morning to avoid any kind of rush. Also, that it wasn’t yet peak tourist season would be a point in my favour.
There was definitely a build-up as the approach to the square was market by a street lined with lights, almost like a runway illuminating the path. Insert religious parallel here.
(On that note, let’s get this out of the way. This isn’t intended to advocate Christianity or to provoke religious debate. This is an overview with lacings of historical fact. Leave your theological interpretations at the door. )

   

While I was there, I heard a hell of a lot of languages from different tourist groups – French, Spanish, German, Japanese, Chinese. It’s not an exaggeration to say that it really does draw peoples from all over the world. Makes communicating with anyone mighty difficult. During my stay I picked up some basics of Italian and got to practice some of my other languages but I’m pretty rusty from not having anyone to converse with for nearly 7 years. I’ll come back to this point later.
The large obelisk in the centre of the square was brought by the Emperor Caligula in AD40 to mark the end of his racetrack. For those of you who aren’t familiar with the Roman Emperors, he was the slightly mental one who declared war on Neptune and sent his army to the shores to stab the water.
After going through the security scanners (déjà vu) I entered the Basilica of St. Peter.
Any description that I give can’t do justice to the impression I got when I walked through the doors. I uttered the words “Fuck me” if that’s helps to convey just how grandiose it was. No picture can replicate just how magnificent it is, but here’s one I took anyway.

   

The only thing that I can say with definitive certainty is that I’m glad I’m not in any kind of artistic field because if I was a sculptor or painter, I was have been seriously demoralized at knowing that I’d never be able to approach such levels of artisan mastery. Hell, Michelangelo made ‘La Pieta’ when he was just 24.
Moving on, I picked up a few choice lines from the audio guide while I was there. For example, Pious XII was famously quoted as saying “Nothing is lost in peace. All might be lost in war.” Alexander VII was depicted as being personified by Charity, Truth, Justice and Prudence. But I have to say that a lot of the symbolism was above my level.
I popped into the Vatican Museum while I was there too. It contains a series of donations made by Catholic believers from all over the world to the Vatican. Exquisite would be an understatement.
Next up was the Sistine Chapel. No photography was allowed, but even if it was I still wouldn’t have taken a photo. I must have sat there for at least half an hour trying to burn the image into my memory. It really is beautiful. I depicts the story of creation the life of Jesus. Muralistic and awe-inspiring. I fully recommend a visit - you have to see it first-hand to believe it.
You can also climb to the top of the dome. Great view.

   

The next day I made for the Colosseum.
To get there I had to cross the Tibur. Once I made it to the other side I was struck by how different this part of the city was. Everything was…..less shabby. Impressive, actually. Even the government housing was decorated nicely – no horrible greys in sight. I guess you could say the river served as a kind of economic divider with everything on the west side being worse off. The shopping district was located on the east side as well as more tourist destinations and some or the pricier restaurants.
Anyway, I got there for about noon and headed to the entrance. I was approached by a tour guide and decided to take up the offer since this was one of the major sticking points of my visit (I’d always wanted to see it) and didn’t want to miss a thing.

   

It was built in just 8 years with 50,000 slaves (2 more for the extra levels) The Emperor’s seat was located on the south side to avoid being in the sun and the entire structure had a canopy roof operated by sailors to control the ventilation and smell of the arena.
It has 80 numbered archways and an underground level where animals would be housed.

   

Continued