Quote: (04-09-2012 09:45 PM)assman Wrote:
With the button-down shirts I wear untucked, I usually pair them with medium-rise bootcut jeans, belt and boots. The jeans cut is fitted I suppose; definitely not very relaxed or baggy, but not skinny jean tight either. Shirts are long sleeve. Sometimes worn with a blazer, sometimes without.
Good -- the fitted look is the best on a shorter, fit man. My tailor in Chicago is hilarious, he even tailors my jeans to show off my package -- no charge.
Since you wear a belt, you actually can get away with having your shirt taken up quite a bit more so it's just over the belt (hidden), but when you sit, the belt is visible. If you sit and your belt is still hidden, your shirt is too long. Note that on a billowing fat-fit shirt, too short will be bad news, your skin will show.
This is also where a 4% stretch material helps a lot. Nordstrom's Calibrate Stretch line is great for that, and they can be found relatively cheap ($30 at Rack).
Quote: (04-09-2012 09:45 PM)assman Wrote:
Cool. I've always hated how the mids are so much longer than the sides. Now's my chance to fix that!
That's because most guys are fat, dude. Even ones who are "slim fit" are still fat. It's fucking disgusting, but that's one area guys with game can set themselves higher than the standard, again.
Quote: (04-09-2012 09:45 PM)assman Wrote:
The first thing I want to do is shorten the hems of my existing shirts. That will be a lot of bang for the buck since I already own the shirts and since they are fitted, the fit is decent (although tailored would be better).
Ask how much extra to dart the backs, if they're not darted already. That can actually help make a better fit on the chest area.
Quote: (04-09-2012 09:26 PM)assman Wrote:
Budget is variable - I spend less when I don't think it fits really well. But willing to spend more if it's something I think isn't too trendy (and will be dated soon), is quality and will last, and fits really well. So yeah, drop those names on me. Short, skinny, but fit-ish, like I said 8" drop.
I've been meaning to do a blog post on budget, I'd be happy to cross post some key elements here at a later date.
A man can get by with 10 dress shirts total ($500 total online, maybe less, for fully tailored cut-and-sew), 3 slacks ($300 total online) and 3 jeans (up to $450 online) all tailored. It's still a lot for most guys, so what I recommend they do is hit Nordstrom Rack if you have one, or regular Nordstrom and look for the 60-70% clearance rack. Buy the cheapest shirt that fits loose and have their in-house tailor fix it up. I have the budget to afford pricey, but I've walked out of those stores dropping as little as $35 on a fully tailored shirt, including the shirt. It's a matter of finding a style.
For my skin tone (I'm half Hindu half Polack), I just wear charcoals, dark maroon reds and baby blues, and that's my entire wardrobe. No patterns, NO STRIPES. Patterns and stripes draw attention to your chest, and that makes you look smaller. Instead, work on lighter jeans (not too dark blue denim) as that will draw attention to your seemingly long legs. You don't need many shirts, just enough to make it to the next laundry session (I dry clean).