Quote: (04-09-2012 09:09 PM)assman Wrote:
I usually leave my button-down shirts untucked, and since I have a relatively short torso, the shirt hangs way below my beltline. I had no idea that contributed to a shorter appearance.
It depends on your physique. If you have a spare tire, by all means leave it untucked -- it'll make you appear slimmer.
If you have an inverted pyramid (i.e., large drop), get that shirt tailored up perfectly (I recommend going 96% cotton 4% stretch) and tuck -- tucking gives your legs a longer appearance. Try it with your camera phone in the mirror and compare from the same distance.
Quote: (04-09-2012 09:09 PM)assman Wrote:
How much would you expect tailors to charge for bringing the bottom hem up? Would you suggest 3" overhang at the front and back (longest parts of the shirt tail)?
I have an awesome tailor in Chicago and another great one in Lauderdale, and both of them give me discounts for not being pushy -- i.e., I don't demand my items in a day or a week but when they slow down. Usually it's 1-2 weeks turnaround, but could be longer during prom and wedding seasons. I typically pay $15 to have my off-the-rack shirts taken in, darted, and the hem raised, but that's about half-price. I know that Nordstrom Rack (the outlet) offers discount tailoring if you buy shirts there, too.
The reason I'm starting my clothing line is because I have a contact in Mumbai, India who is going to offer me "off the rack" clothes but sized for fit and/or shorter guys, something that is greatly lacking in the States.
For me, there are 3 brands that offer shirts that fit, but still need tailoring. It's a nightmare to dress.
My closet is pretty sparse though because most of my clothes are bespoke AND designed to work together. A lot depends on how you dress, though: I prefer tailored soft jeans, dress shirts and dress shoes, and throw a jacket or a vest in here and there, depending on the people I'm with.